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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.